The present invention relates to a false-twisted yarn of a polyester composite fiber, which can be used for knitted or woven fabrics.
In recent years there has been a strong demand for stretch knitted or woven fabrics exhibiting an excellent stretch performance and a wearable feel.
This demand has been met by the use of numerous stretchable knitted or woven fabrics obtained by mixing, for example, polyurethane fiber with polyester fiber or the like.
However, polyurethane fiber is problematic in that it is not easily dyed with polyester fiber disperse dyes and therefore requires a more complex dyeing process, while it also becomes brittle and loses its stretch properties with prolonged use.
It has been attempted to avoid such problems by investigating the use of a crimped yarn of polyester fiber instead of a polyurethane fiber.
Crimped yarn is a term including bulky yarn obtained by mechanical working of drawn yarn or partially oriented yarn (POY), and self-crimping yarn achieved by adhering two types of polymers in a side-by-side or eccentrical fashion and crimping them.
False twisted yarn is a typical type of bulky yarn of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) (hereunder, xe2x80x9cPTTxe2x80x9d). Such yarn is described in numerous published documents including Kohyo (National Patent Publication of Translated Version) No. 9-509225, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication SHO No. 58-104216, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication SHO No. 11-172536, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-20136 and WO00/47507, and Chemical Fibers International, Vol.47, pp.72-74 (published 2/1997).
PTT false twisted yarn includes single heater stretch yarn obtained directly by crimping or draw crimping, and double heater set yarn obtained by further heat treatment of single heater stretch yarn.
Single heater stretch yarn has residual torque, and with further heat treatment the crimping is augmented and hardened to give false twisted yarn with latent crimpability. Double heater set yarn is obtained by development of crimps by thermosetting, and such textured yarn has low residual torque.
Single heater false twisted yarn having latent crimpability and a high crimp development property is normally used in woven fabrics, but when it resides in a woven fabric with strong binding force due to the fabric texture, or when it has been subjected to a strong load, it often fails to exhibit adequate crimping even if the cloth is subjected to heat treatment or other steps.
For example, when conventional PTT false twisted yarn is used as the warp yarn for a woven fabric, the strong binding force of the fabric texture prevents expression of adequate crimping and, therefore, a fabric with an excellent stretch property (or, stretchability) cannot be obtained.
Double heater false twisted yarn with dense crimping and few surface irregularities is commonly used for cloths such as knitted fabrics with relatively low texture binding force, but when conventional PTT false twisted yarn is used, stretchability is obtained but little of the free-movement property of cloths employing polyurethane fiber is exhibited.
On the other hand, side-by-side crimped yarn is a typical type of self-crimping yarn of PTT fiber, and the relevant prior art includes Japanese Examined Patent Publication SHO No. 43-19108, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-239927, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-256918, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-55634, European Patent (EP) No. 1059372, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-40537, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-131837, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2002-61031, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2002-54029 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,306,499.
In these documents there is proposed either the use of PTT for at least one of the components, or else the use of PTT with different intrinsic viscosity for side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath two-component composite fiber (hereunder both collectively referred to as xe2x80x9cPTT composite fibersxe2x80x9d; PTT composite fiber is also called as PTT conjugate fiber). Such PTT composite fibers are characterized by having a soft feel and satisfactory crimp development property. The aforementioned prior art documents teach that such fibers have stretch properties and elongation recovery, and that these properties can be utilized for application in various stretch knitted or woven fabrics or bulky knitted or woven fabrics.
However, conventional PTT composite fibers have been found to have the following problems.
(i) Crimp Development Property
Because of the weak crimp development property of conventional PTT composite fibers, excellent stretchability cannot be obtained when they are used for woven fabrics with strong binding force due to the texture. That is, although adequate crimping is expressed in the absence of a load, adequate crimping cannot be expressed even with heat treatment in the presence of binding as exists in a woven fabric or under a load.
In order to compensate for the weak crimp development property and to express adequate stretchability, it has been necessary to first produce a wide knitted or woven fabric, and then release the binding or load during heat treatment, which results in significantly shrinkage of the fabric width. It cannot be denied that this method is economically disadvantageous because of the reduced cloth width.
When a conventional PTT composite fiber is used directly in a knitted or woven fabric, craping irregularities are produced on the surface of the cloth product, resulting in impaired surface quality. In order to improve the surface quality, twisting is carried out at 500-2000 turns/m but, although the surface craping is reduced with greater twisting such that the surface quality is improved to some degree, a drawback is that the crimpability is reduced.
Thus, while conventional PTT composite fibers exhibit stretch properties and an elongation recovery comparable to elastic fibers if heat treated in the absence of a load, when they are actually used in a cloth, their weak crimp development property limits their use for woven fabrics with strong fiber binding.
It has also been considered to combine false twisting with such polyester composite fibers in order to compensate for the weakness of the crimp development property of the fibers.
Publicly known poly(ethylene terephthalate) composite fibers, when subjected simply to false twisting, do not exhibit a crimpability exceeding false twisting of the individual component fibers of the composite fiber. (See, for example, xe2x80x9cFilament Texturing Technology Manualxe2x80x9d ed. by The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, p.190: 1976.)
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-256918 discloses a technique whereby an eccentric core-sheath composite fiber comprising as one of the components PTT obtained by copolymerization of three-dimensional crosslinkable trifunctional components, is subjected to false twisting to develop crimps. This publication, however, merely mentions crimping of latent crimped yarn as one means of development, and neither discloses nor suggests an improvement in the crimp development property. Also, the PTT fiber obtained by copolymerization of crosslinking components disclosed in this publication has poor long-term spinning stability, and this has therefore hampered industrial operations. In addition, because of the effect of the crosslinking components, the breaking elongation of the false twisted yarn is less than 25%, resulting in more yarn breakage during false twisting and thus hampered industrial operation.
(ii) False Twisting Property
Surprisingly, it has been shown that for false twisting of conventional PTT composite fiber, yarn breakage increases during false twisting as the false twisting time proceeds.
When the cause of this was investigated, it was found to be that trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the fiber sublimate during false twisting and attach to, and accumulate on, the guides.
It is surmised that the lower degree of molecular orientation of side-by-side composite fiber comprising PTT as compared with fiber composed of simple polymers causes the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the fiber to readily sublimate during false twisting.
(iii) Dyeing Problems
Known dyeing methods for knitted or woven fabrics include piece dyeing methods and print dyeing methods, as well as yarn dyeing methods.
Knitted or woven fabrics obtained by yarn dyeing methods have patterns formed by the different color distributions of the respective fibers, and are therefore characterized by allowing knitted or woven fabrics with high quality feel or fashion to be obtained. Yarn dyeing methods include methods of dyeing after reeling and dyeing after cheese winding, but the latter are most commonly used from the standpoint of dyeing economy.
Knitted or woven fabrics obtained by yarn dyeing of PTT twisted yarn by cheese dyeing (hereinafter referred to simply as xe2x80x9ccheese dyeingxe2x80x9d) are more suited to crimp development during dyeing, as compared to false twisted yarn made of PTT or poly(ethylene terephthalate) (hereinafter, xe2x80x9cPETxe2x80x9d). Consequently, when yarn dyed PTT false twisted yarn is used in knitted fabrics, satisfactory stretchability is characteristically obtained due to the high crimpability.
Despite this characteristic, however, it has been found that with cheese-dyeing of PTT false twisted yarn, the oligomers extracted from the textured yarn are deposited on the dyeing cheese, thus impairing the dyeing uniformity.
Specifically, when the dyeing solution circulates through the cheese from the inside to the outside of the cheese, the oligomers which have dissolved from the PTT false twisted yarn into the dyeing solution are deposited, adhering to the textured yarn. This creates the problem of production of uneven dyeing or dark coloration at the sections of the textured yarn at which the oligomers have adhered. This dyeing problem caused by oligomers is not limited to yarn dyeing, but also occurs with piece dyeing.
Analysis by the present inventors has shown that the major components of the oligomers are trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers.
The reason for the large amount of deposition of cyclic dimers with PTT false twisted yarn is not well understood, but it is conjectured that the low degree of orientation of PTT in PTT false twisted yarn facilitates movement of cyclic dimers to the textured yarn surface.
Japanese Patent Publication No. 3204399 discloses PTT fiber with a limited oligomer content in order to control spinneret discharge port contamination. However, its content is still high, and the dyeing problems which occur when dyeing PTT false twisted yarn are not addressed.
As explained above, there has been a demand for a composite fiber that exhibits an excellent crimp development property and high elongation recovery property even under the typically high load conditions for fabrics. There has also been a demand for a composite fiber with both excellent surface quality and high elongation recovery even when used for knitted fabrics. In addition, a strong demand exists for a method of stable production of both such a composite fiber and its false twisted yarn on an industrial scale, which does not entail dyeing problems.
It is an object of the present invention to provide false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber which can provide superior stretchability and quick stretch recovery when used for clothes, i.e., which can give knitted or woven fabrics with excellent free-movement properties. It is another object of the invention to provide a method for stable industrial production of a false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber which is not susceptible to trouble during dyeing, which method allows satisfactory process throughput during twisting and produces no yarn breakage.
The first problem to be solved by the invention is to eliminate the reduction in crimp development property under high loads or the lack of extension recovery, which is the drawback of PTT simple fiber false twisted yarn or conventional PTT composite fibers. The second problem is to eliminate trouble during dyeing caused by oligomers, for false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting PTT composite fiber. The third problem is to eliminate yarn breakage during false twisting of the aforementioned false twisted yarn made of PTT composite fiber.
Specifically, the present invention provides the following.
1. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (5).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) At least one of the components of the two polyester components composing the single filaments is PTT.
(3) The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components is 0.05-0.9 (dl/g).
(4) It has latent crimpability.
(5) It has at least 50% stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment.
2. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to 1. above, characterized in that the mean intrinsic viscosity of the composite fiber is 0.6-1.2 (dl/g).
3. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (6).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) At least one of the components of the two polyester components composing the single filaments is PTT.
(3) It has 50-300% stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment.
(4) The relationship between the load X (xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex) during boiling water treatment and the crimp factor Y (%) after boiling water treatment satisfies the inequality xe2x88x9210X+60xe2x89xa6Yxe2x89xa680 (provided that 1xe2x89xa6Xxe2x89xa64).
(5) The elongation recovery speed of the false twisted yarn after boiling water treatment is 15-50 m/sec.
(6) The breaking elongation of the false twisted yarn before boiling water treatment is 25% or greater.
4. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to 1., 2. or 3. above, characterized in that the PTT is either a PTT homopolymer or a copolymer containing no more than 10 mole percent of repeating ester units other than repeating trimethylene terephthalate units.
5. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 4. above, characterized in that the stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment is 70-300%.
6. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 5. above, characterized in that the crimp factor measured after boiling water treatment with a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex is 35% or greater.
7. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (7).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) At least one of the components of the two polyester components composing the single filaments is PTT.
(3) The PTT is either a PTT homopolymer or a copolymer containing no more than 10 mole percent of repeating ester units other than repeating trimethylene terephthalate units.
(4) The untwisting torque is no greater than 100 turns/m.
(5) The relationship between the load X (xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex) during boiling water treatment and the crimp factor Y (%) after boiling water treatment satisfies the inequality xe2x88x9210X+60xe2x89xa6Yxe2x89xa680 (provided that 1xe2x89xa6Xxe2x89xa64).
(6) The elongation recovery speed of the false twisted yarn after boiling water treatment is 15-50 m/sec.
(7) The breaking elongation of the false twisted yarn before boiling water treatment is 25% or greater.
8. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to 7. above which is suitable for knitted fabrics, characterized in that the crimp factor measured after boiling water treatment with a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex is 30% or greater.
9. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 8. above, characterized in that the other polyester component is PET, poly(propylene terephthalate) or poly(butylene terephthalate).
10. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 9. above, characterized in that the PTT contains no trifunctional components.
11. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 10. above, characterized in that the content of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the false twisted yarn is no greater than 2.5 wt %.
12. False twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 11. above, characterized in that the fiber size fluctuation value (U %) of the false twisted yarn is no greater than 1.5%.
13. A knitted or woven fabric employing false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 1. to 12. above for all or a portion thereof.
14. A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (6).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components is 0.1-0.8 (dl/g).
(3) At least one of the components of the two polyester components is PTT.
(4) The content of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the false twisted yarn is no greater than 2.5 wt %.
(5) The polyester is discharged from a spinneret with the discharge port inclined at an angle of 10-40xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction and then, after cooling to solidification, is taken up either with or without drawing to obtain composite fiber.
(6) The obtained composite fiber is false twisted at a yarn temperature of 140-190xc2x0 C. during the false twisting.
15. A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (8).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components is 0.1-0.8 (dl/g).
(3) At least one of the components of the two polyester components is PTT.
(4) The content of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the false twisted yarn is no greater than 2.5 wt %.
(5) The polyester is discharged from a spinneret with the discharge port inclined at an angle of 10-40xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction and then, after cooling to solidification, is taken up either with or without drawing to obtain composite fiber.
(6) The obtained composite fiber is false twisted by a double heater method.
(7) The overfeed ratio in the second heater is xe2x88x9210 to +5%.
(8) The yarn temperature during false twisting is 140-190xc2x0 C.
16. A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (6).
(1) The composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or core-sheath manner.
(2) The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components is 0.1-0.8 (dl/g).
(3) Both of the two polyester components are PTT.
(4) The PTT contains no trifunctional components.
(5) The mean intrinsic viscosity of the composite fiber is 0.6-1.2 (dl/g).
(6) False twisting is performed using composite fiber selected from among the following (a) to (c).
(a) Composite fiber wound into a pirn shape, having a breaking elongation of 25-50% and a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0.10-0.30 cN/dtex.
(b) Composite fiber wound into a cheese shape, having a breaking elongation of 30-80% and a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0-0.20 cN/dtex.
(c) Undrawn composite fiber wound into a cheese shape, having a breaking elongation of 50-120%, a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0-0.15 cN/dtex and a boiling water shrinkage of 1-10%.
17. A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 14. to 16. above, characterized by satisfying the following conditions (1) to (4).
(1) The two polyester components are both PTT homopolymers.
(2) The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components is 0.3-0.5 (dl/g).
(3) The homopolymers are discharged from a spinneret with the discharge port inclined at an angle of 20-40xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction to obtain composite fiber.
(4) The obtained composite fiber is false twisted.
18. A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to any one of 14. to 17. above, characterized in that both of the two polyester components are PTT homopolymers with a trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content of no greater than 2.5 wt %.
The present invention will now be explained in greater detail.
According to the invention, the composite fiber is composed of single filaments with two polyester components laminated in a side-by-side manner or a core-sheath manner. That is, the positioning of the two polyesters is such that they are laminated in a side-by-side manner along the length of the single filaments, or else all or a portion of one of the polyester components is surrounded by the other polyester component, resulting core-sheath composite fiber having a fiber cross-section in which both are situated eccentrically. The side-by-side manner is preferred.
The difference in intrinsic viscosity of the two polyester components is 0.05-0.9 dl/g, preferably 0.1-0.8 dl/g, more preferably 0.1-0.5 dl/g and even more preferably 0.3-0.5 dl/g. A difference in intrinsic viscosity within this range will give adequate crimpability and extension recovery, with virtually no yarn bending during discharge or contamination of the discharge port even if the spinneret design or discharge conditions are changed during spinning of the composite fiber, while the fiber size fluctuation of the false twisted yarn is also reduced.
According to the invention, the blending ratio of the two polyester components with different intrinsic viscosities in the single filament cross-section is preferably 40/60 to 70/30 and more preferably 45/55 to 65/35 as the proportion of the high viscosity component to the low viscosity component. A ratio in this range will give strength of at least 2.5 cN/dtex and excellent crimpability suitable for sports uses.
According to the invention, at least one of the two polyester components composing the single filaments is PTT. That is, the combination of polyester components may be a combination of PTT with a polyester other than PTT, or a combination of PTT components.
The PTT may be a PTT homopolymer, or it may be copolymer PTT containing no more than 10 mole percent of repeating ester units other than repeating trimethylene terephthalate units.
The following may be mentioned as typical examples of copolymerizing components for copolymer PTT.
Acidic components include aromatic dicarboxylic acids represented by isophthalic acid and 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid, and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids represented by adipic acid and itaconic acid. Glycolic components include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and the like. Hydroxycarboxylic acids such as hydroxybenzoic acid are further examples. A plurality of these may also be copolymerized.
According to the invention, one of the two polyester components composing the single filaments is preferably PTT while the other component is PET or poly(butylene terephthalate) (hereinafter, xe2x80x9cPBTxe2x80x9d), or a third copolymerized component, with PBT being preferred.
As typical third components for copolymerization there may be mentioned the following. Acidic components include aromatic dicarboxylic acids represented by isophthalic acid and 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid, and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids represented by adipic acid and itaconic acid. Glycolic components include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and the like. Hydroxycarboxylic acids such as hydroxybenzoic acid are further examples. A plurality of these may also be copolymerized.
According to the invention, the mean intrinsic viscosity of the composite fiber is preferably 0.6-1.2 dl/g and more preferably 0.7-1.2 dl/g. A mean intrinsic viscosity within this range will result in sufficient false twisted yarn strength and thus cloths with excellent mechanical strength that can be suitably employed for sports uses and the like which require high strength, while stable production is also facilitated since yarn breakage does not occur during the false twisted yarn production process.
The method for production of the PTT used for the invention is not particularly restricted, and any publicly known method may be applied. For example, there may be mentioned a single-stage method which achieves a degree of polymerization corresponding to the prescribed intrinsic viscosity by melt polymerization alone, or a two-stage method whereby the degree of polymerization is increased by melt polymerization up to a prescribed intrinsic viscosity, and then the degree of polymerization is increased to correspond to the prescribed intrinsic viscosity by solid-state polymerization.
According to the invention, the latter two-stage method which combines solid-state polymerization is preferably applied in order to reduce the cyclic dimer content of the PTT. When PTT is produced by a single-stage method, the obtained PTT is preferably supplied to a spinning step after reducing the cyclic dimers by extraction treatment or the like.
The PTT used for the invention preferably has a trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content of no greater than 2.5 wt %, more preferably no greater than 1.1 wt % and more preferably no greater than 1.0 wt %. A smaller cyclic dimer content is preferred, and it may even be 0%. A cyclic dimer content of 2.5 wt % or less will result in a content of no greater than 2.5 wt % in the false twisted yarn, as will be explained below, thereby eliminating trouble during false twisting and dyeing.
The PTT used for the invention preferably contains no trifunctional components. When trifunctional components are present, the PTT chains become branched and the crystal orientation of the fiber is reduced. As trifunctional components there may be mentioned trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, trimellitic acid and pyromellitic acid.
According to the invention, the two polyester components composing the single filaments are both preferably PTT in order to obtain excellent instantaneous recovery. When both of the components are PTT, the content of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers is preferably no greater than 1.1 wt % for both PTT components, in order to reduce yarn breakage due to cyclic dimer deposition during false twisting.
The false twisted yarn of polyester composite fiber according to the invention not only has crimps (i.e. developed crimps) produced by false twisting of the polyester composite fiber, but also exhibits latent crimpability. Latent crimpability is crimping that is developed by heat treatment of false twisted yarn. The heat treatment is, for example, treatment in boiling water, heating during the dyeing step or heating during other steps, and the heat treatment may be carried out at the fiber stage or the cloth stage.
The false twisted yarn of the invention has at least 50%, preferably 50-300%, more preferably 60-300% and even more preferably 70-300% stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment. If the stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment is at least 50%, then high crimp development property will be achieved by boiling water treatment even for a cloth with strong binding force such as woven fabrics, and therefore a cloth with excellent stretchability and instantaneous elongation recovery is obtained. Stretching elongation of about 300% is the limit for the current state of the art.
Since the stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to boiling water treatment is at most 20% for conventional PET false twisted yarn (See xe2x80x9cFilament Texturing Technology Manualxe2x80x9d ed. by The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, p.191: 1976), the stretching elongation of the false twisted yarn of the invention may be considered extremely high.
When PTT false twisted yarn according to the invention is used as weft for a woven fabric, a greige with stretchability even before water boiling treatment is obtained. This has never been achieved when using publicly known false twisted yarn or latent crimping composite fibers.
Another industrial advantage of the high stretching elongation of developed crimps prior to water boiling treatment is that it is possible to obtain cloths with high stretchability without performing full-width widening by heat treatment during the process from knitted or woven fabric greige to product, such that an economical advantage is also provided. Moreover, since sudden shrinkage by heat treatment is controlled, craping irregularities are not produced on knitted fabric surfaces, thus providing the advantage of giving knitted fabrics with satisfactory surface qualities.
For false twisted yarn according to the invention, the relationship between the load X (xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex) during boiling water treatment and the crimp factor Y (%) after boiling water treatment satisfies the inequalityxe2x80x9410X+60xe2x89xa6Yxe2x89xa680 (provided that 1xe2x89xa6Xxe2x89xa64).
For the load X, the load to which the cloth is subjected during scouring or dyeing of knitted or woven fabric is assumed to be in the range of 1xc3x9710xe2x88x923 to 4xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex. The false twisted yarn of the invention exhibits a high crimp factor within this range of load.
The range represented by the aforementioned relational equation for X and Y is illustrated by the shaded area in FIG. 1. In FIG. 1, the horizontal axis represents the load X (xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex) applied to the false twisted yarn during boiling water treatment, and the vertical axis represents the crimp factor Y (%) of the false twisted yarn after boiling water treatment.
As seen by the shaded area in FIG. 1, the false twisted yarn of the invention has a high crimp factor, i.e., high crimp development property even when a load is large. For example, with boiling water treatment under a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex, the crimp factor of the false twisted yarn of the invention is seen to be 30% or higher. Cloth having such a high crimp factor exhibits excellent stretchability.
The crimp factor Y is more preferably 35% or greater and even more preferably 40% or greater. A higher crimp factor Y is preferred, but approximately 80% is the upper limit for the current state of the art.
The specific excellence of the crimp development property of the false twisted yarn of the invention will now be further explained with reference to FIGS. 2a, 2b, 3a and 3b. 
FIG. 2a is a scanning electron microscope photograph of the crimp form of the false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 according to the invention after boiling water treatment in the absence of a load, and FIG. 2b is the same of the crimp form after boiling water treatment under a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex.
For comparison, FIG. 3a is a scanning electron microscope photograph of the crimp form of false twisted yarn of simple fiber composed of PTT alone as in Comparative Example 7, after boiling water treatment in the absence of a load, and FIG. 3b is the same of the crimp form after boiling water treatment under a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex.
As is clearly seen from these photographs, the false twisted yarn of the invention expresses fine crimping upon boiling water treatment in the absence of a load (FIG. 2a) as expected, but also expresses numerous crimps even under a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex (FIG. 2b). In contrast, the false twisted yarn of simple fiber composed of PTT alone expresses fine crimping upon boiling water treatment in the absence of a load (FIG. 3a), but expresses few crimps under a load of 3xc3x9710xe2x88x923 cN/dtex (FIG. 3b). In other words, this shows that the false twisted yarn of the invention has higher crimp development property than conventional false twisted yarn.
The high crimp development property of the false twisted yarn of the invention even under load means that it expresses excellent crimping even when it is used in woven fabrics with strong binding force due their texture, and can therefore give fabrics with excellent stretchability and stretchback properties.
The false twisted yarn of the invention has an elongation recovery speed of preferably 15-50 m/sec and more preferably 15-30 m/sec after boiling water treatment.
The elongation recovery speed is for false twisted yarn which has been subjected to boiling water treatment in the absence of a load, stretched to a prescribed stress and then cut, and it is the speed at which the length of the stretched false twisted yarn instantaneously recovers. This measuring method is a method first proposed by the present inventors, and it is the first method to allow quantitative measurement of stretchback properties. A detailed explanation of the measuring method will follow.
When the elongation recovery speed after boiling water treatment is within the above range, rapid stretch recovery, i.e. an excellent free-movement property, is exhibited for clothes.
In order to obtain knitted or woven fabrics with excellent free-movement properties, the elongation recovery speed after boiling water treatment is preferably 15 m/sec or greater and more preferably 20 m/sec or greater for knitted fabric textures, or 20 m/sec or greater and more preferably 25 m/sec or greater for woven fabric textures. Yarn with elongation recovery speed exceeding 50 m/sec is difficult to produce with the current state of the art.
According to the measuring method described above, the elongation recovery speed of publicly known PET false twisted yarn is about 10 m/sec, and the elongation recovery speed of publicly known false twisted yarn of PTT fiber alone is about 15 m/sec. Considering that the elongation recovery speed of publicly known Spandex elastic fiber is 30-50 m/sec, it will be appreciated that the false twisted yarn of the invention has a high elongation recovery comparable to Spandex elastic fiber.
The false twisted yarn of the invention has an untwisting torque of preferably no greater than 100 turns/m and more preferably no greater than 80 turns/m. An untwisting torque of under 100 turns/m will give knitted fabrics with no surface irregularities and satisfactory surface quality.
In particular, since knitted fabrics have lower textural binding force than woven fabrics, stretchability will be imparted to some degree simply by the knitted texture itself. Thus, the crimping property of the false twisted yarn may be lower than for woven fabrics, and instead, as satisfactory surface knitted quality is necessary, advantages are afforded if the untwisting torque is in the range described above.
The size of the false twisted yarn of the invention and the single-filament size are not particularly restricted, but preferably the size is 20-300 dtex and the single-filament size is 0.5-20 dtex. Also, the single-filament cross-sectional shape may have a circular shape, an irregular shape such as a Y-shape or W-shape, or a hollow cross-sectional shape.
The breaking elongation of the false twisted yarn of the invention is preferably at least 25% and more preferably 30-60%. A breaking elongation of at least 25% will result in no crimping uneveness and low fluff generation and yarn breakage during production of the false twisted yarn or during texturing of produced knitted or woven fabrics.
The breaking strength of the PTT false twisted yarn of the invention is preferably at least 2 cN/dtex and more preferably at least 2.2 cN/dtex. A breaking strength of at least 2 cN/dtex will result in knitted fabrics with adequate strength and durability that can be used in a wide range of fields.
The PTT false twisted yarn of the invention has a fiber size fluctuation value (U %) of preferably no greater than 1.5% and more preferably 0.5-1.5%. A U % value of 1.5% or less will result in knitted or woven fabrics with excellent quality irrespective of their texture.
The PTT false twisted yarn of the invention preferably contains a finishing agent at 0.2-2 wt % for the purpose of imparting smoothness, cohesion, electrostatic properties and the like. If necessary, intermingling may be imparted at 1-50 nodes/m.
A knitted or woven fabric using false twisted yarn according to the invention has very excellent stretchability, rapid stretch recovery, i.e., an excellent free-movement property, and satisfactory quality without craping defect or dyeing uneveness.
As fabric textures there may be used plain weave textures, twill weave textures and satin weave textures, as well as various types of texture variations derived therefrom.
In the case of a woven fabric, the false twisted yarn of the invention may be used as the warp alone, the weft alone or both the warp and the weft.
The stretch factor of the woven fabric is preferably 10% or greater, more preferably 20% or greater, and even more preferably 25% or greater. A woven fabric with a stretch factor of 20% or greater exhibits a particularly satisfactory instantaneous free-movement property for local instantaneous movement displacement when used for sports wear and the like, so that the effect of the invention may be exhibited even more effectively.
The elongation recovery of the woven fabric is preferably 80-100% and more preferably 85-100%.
Because a woven fabric using false twisted yarn according to the invention has low elongation stress when the fabric is stretched, the tightness during wear is low such that a comfortable feel is exhibited, thereby reducing fatigue even with prolonged wear. A comfortable feel due to low wearing tightness is obtained if the elongation stress is, for example, a stress of no greater than 150 cN/cm with 20% elongation. A stress of 50-100 cN/cm with a 20% elongation is more preferred.
Since woven fabrics using false twisted yarn according to the invention have an excellent free-movement property, they are resistant to wrinkling behind the knee or around the hips when used for slacks or skirts. This renders them highly suitable for slacks, skirts, uniforms and the like.
For knitted fabrics, the false twisted yarn of the invention may be applied for numerous types of knitted fabrics including warp-knitted fabrics, weft-knitted fabrics, and the like. For example, they are highly suitable for jerseys, swimwear, stockings and the like. Such products exhibit excellent characteristics in terms of wearing feel and free-movement properties comparable to knitted fabrics employing Spandex fiber.
When false twisted yarn according to the invention is used in a knitted or woven fabric, it may remain untwisted or it may be interlaced or twisted for increased cohesion. Twisting may be imparted either in the same direction or the opposite direction as that of the false twisting. The twisting coefficient is preferably no greater than 5000.
The twisting coefficient k is represented by the following equation, where T represents the number of twists.
T (turns/m)=k/{size of false twisted yarn (dtex)}1/2
The false twisted yarn of the invention will exhibit the effect of the invention both when used alone and when used in a composite with other fibers.
Other fibers to be composited therewith may be long fibers or short fibers, and there may be mentioned conventional publicly known fiber types including natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk and the like, or synthetic fibers including cellulose-based fibers such as cupra, viscose, polynosic fiber and purified cellulose fiber, acetate, polyesters such as PET and PTT, nylon, acrylic and the like.
The compositing means used may be yarn blending by conventional publicly known cross-twisting or fiber mixing (including methods by interlacing and the like), or machine compositing such as cross-knitting or cross-weaving. For example, false twisted yarn according to the invention may be used as a core yarn with the aforementioned natural fibers or cellulose-based fibers as the sheath yarn, or a cross-woven fabric may employ the aforementioned natural fibers or cellulose-based fibers as either the warp yarn or weft yarn and false twisted yarn according to the invention or composite yarn such as core yarn for the other direction. Cross-woven fabrics employing spun yarn (including yarn-dyed yarn) of natural fibers or cellulose-based fibers as the warp and false twisted yarn according to the invention (untwisted or twisted) or the aforementioned core yarn as the weft are particularly suitable for jeans, chinos, corduroy and shirt fabrics.
These cross-woven fabrics are characterized by being resistant to knee-portion slackened, being resistant to wrinkling and allowing easy removal of wrinkles which are produced. Jeans and the like employing conventional polyurethane elastic fiber undergo deterioration or core yarn breakage due to product cleaning steps such as chlorine bleaching and stone washing, or due to repeated washing, but woven fabrics employing false twisted yarn according to the invention are virtually free of such problems.
A method for production of false twisted yarn of polyester compounds fiber according to the invention will now be explained.
In the production method of the invention, the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content of the compounds fiber is preferably no greater than 2.5 wt %. Trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers sublimate from the composite fiber during false twisting, but if the content is too high, the sublimated cyclic dimers attach to and accumulate on the guides, and result in increased yarn breakage during false twisting. The effect of the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content on false twisting is particularly notable when the two polyester components are a combination of PTT. A lower trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content in the composite fiber is preferred, with a limit of 2.2 wt % being more preferred and 2.0 wt % being even more preferred.
Dyeing trouble is one of the problems that occurs with an excess trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content. For example, when carrying out cheese dyeing, the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers which have eluted into the dyeing solution adhere to the false twisted yarn during the dyeing, thus inhibiting circulation of the dyeing solution and resulting in uneven dyeing.
In order to reduce the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content in the composite fiber to within the preferred range, the PTT used for production of the composite fiber preferably has a trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content of no greater than 2.5 wt %, and this can also be achieved by controlling the melt spinning conditions of the composite fiber or by adding a trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer reducer during the PTT polymerization or melt spinning of the composite fiber. Such means may, of course, also be combined.
Control of the melt spinning conditions for the composite fiber can be achieved by controlling the melt spinning temperature or residence time. For example, the melt spinning temperature is preferably 240-280xc2x0 C. and more preferably 250-270xc2x0 C., while the melt time is preferably within 20 minutes and more preferably within 15 minutes. The melt time is preferably as short as possible, but approximately 5 minutes is the lower limit for industrial operation.
The present inventors have found that the amount of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers in the PTT increases during melt spinning, and have further found that specifying the range for the melt spinning conditions allows this increase in cyclic dimer content to be controlled.
When both of the polyester components are PTT, the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content in the composite fiber can be limited to no greater than 2.5% by a melt spinning temperature of 250-265xc2x0 C. and a melt time of within 15 minutes. As a result, the trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimer content of the false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting of the composite fiber will be no greater than 2.5%.
The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polyester components used for production of the composite fiber is 0.1-0.8 (dl/g). A difference in intrinsic viscosity within this range results in minimal yarn bending during spinning and permits stable spinning. When both of the two polyester components are PTT, the difference in intrinsic viscosity is preferably 0.1-0.4 dl/g and more preferably 0.15-0.35 dl/g.
Composite spinning equipment with a publicly known twin-screw extruder may be used for production of the composite fibers, in addition to employing the spinneret and drawing conditions described below.
An example of a spinneret is shown in FIG. 4. In FIG. 4, (a) is a distributing board and (b) is a spinneret. Two different PTT with different intrinsic viscosities are supplied from A and B, respectively, of the distributing board (a) to the spinneret (b). At the spinneret (b), they are combined and discharged from a discharge port at an inclination angle of xcex8xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction. The diameter of the discharge port is indicated by D and its length by L.
According to the invention, the ratio of the discharge port diameter D and length L (L/D) is preferably at least 2. An L/D ratio of at least 2 will result in stabilization of the adhesion after the two polyesters with different compositions or intrinsic viscosities are combined, thus giving fiber with a uniform size without variation due to melt viscosity difference. A higher L/D ratio is preferred, but from the standpoint of port fabrication technology, it is preferably 2-8 and more preferably 2.5-5.
The discharge port of the spinneret used for the invention must have an inclination angle of 10-40xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction. The inclination angle of the discharge port with respect to the vertical direction is shown by angle xcex8(xc2x0) in FIG. 4. The inclination of the port with respect to the vertical direction is an essential requirement for controlling yarn bending due to melt viscosity difference when the two polyesters with different compositions or intrinsic viscosities are discharged. If the inclination angle is 10-40xc2x0, stabilized spinning can be achieved with no bending phenomenon even when there is a large difference in intrinsic viscosity between the combination of PTT polymers used. The bending phenomenon is the phenomenon whereby the freshly discharged filaments bend in the direction of high intrinsic viscosity.
For example, when the difference in intrinsic viscosities of the PTT polymers is about 0.1 or greater, the discharge port must be inclined at an angle of at least 10xc2x0 with respect to the vertical direction in order to achieve stable spinning with no bending phenomenon. When a difference in intrinsic viscosity is larger, the inclination angle is preferably larger.
According to the invention, preferably, the polyester component with high intrinsic viscosity is supplied on side A and the polyester component with low intrinsic viscosity on side B for discharge using the spinneret shown in FIG. 4.
According to the production method of the invention, the yarn temperature during false twisting is 140-190xc2x0 C. and preferably 150-160xc2x0 C. A yarn temperature within this range during false twisting results in false twisted yarn with excellent crimpability and low sublimation of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers, so that yarn breakage during false twisting is minimal. Particularly when the two polyester components are both PTT, the yarn temperature during false twisting is preferably no higher than 165xc2x0 C. in order to maintain stability of the false twisting.
The present inventors have been the first to discover that when the yarn temperature exceeds 190xc2x0 C., the amount of trimethylene terephthalate cyclic dimers that sublimate from the composite fiber increases and yarn breakage during false twisting also increases, and have established the yarn temperature during false twisting according to the invention on the basis of this discovery. As compared to disclosure in the prior art such as WO00/47570 that the false twisting temperature for simple fibers composed only of PTT is 130-200xc2x0 C., the yarn temperature for false twisting according to the invention is a strictly specified temperature which allows the special notable effect of the invention to be exhibited.
According to the invention there are no particular restrictions on the false twisting method, and it may be any type such as a pin type, friction type, nip-belt type or air false-twisting type method.
The heater may be a contact heater or a non-contact heater.
The twist number (T1) is preferably a number such that the twist number coefficient K1 value as calculated by the equation given below is preferably 21,000-33,000, and more preferably 25,000-32,000. A twist number coefficient K1 value within this range will give false twisted yarn with excellent crimpability and stretchability, with minimal yarn breakage during false twisting.
T1 (turns/m)=K1/{composite fiber size (dtex)}1/2
According to the invention, false twisting is preferably performed using composite fiber selected from any of the following (a), (b) or (c).
(a) Composite fiber wound into a pirn shape, having a breaking elongation of 25-50% and preferably 30-45%, and a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0.10-0.30 cN/dtex and preferably 0.15-0.24 cN/dtex.
When the breaking elongation is within the above-mentioned range, yarn breakage during false twisting is minimal and the U % of the obtained textured yarn is small, resulting in less dyeing uneveness. When the dry heat shrinkage extreme stress is within the above-mentioned range, false twisted yarn with satisfactory stretching elongation can be easily produced.
(b) Composite fiber wound into a cheese shape, having a breaking elongation of 30-80% and preferably 45-70%, and a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0-0.20 cN/dtex and preferably 0.03-0.15 cN/dtex.
When the breaking elongation is within the above-mentioned range, yarn breakage during false twisting is minimal and the U % of the obtained textured yarn is small, resulting in less dyeing uneveness. When the dry heat shrinkage extreme stress is within the above-mentioned range, production is facilitated and a package with a satisfactory wound shape is obtained.
(c) Undrawn composite fiber wound into a cheese shape, having a breaking elongation of 50-120%, a dry heat shrinkage extreme stress of 0-0.15 cN/dtex and preferably 0.01-0.10 cN/dtex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 1-10%.
When the breaking elongation is within the above-mentioned range, yarn breakage during false twisting is minimal and production is thus facilitated. When the dry heat shrinkage extreme stress is within the above-mentioned range, production is facilitated and a satisfactory wound shape is obtained. When the boiling water shrinkage is within the above-mentioned range, production is facilitated and the package shape does not deform even during storage at high temperature.
According to the invention, a double heater false twisting method is preferred, and the overfeed ratio in the double heater is preferably xe2x88x9210 to +5% and more preferably xe2x88x927% to +3%. An overfeed ratio within this range will result in an untwisting torque of 100 turns/m or less, giving knitted fabrics with excellent surface quality and allowing smooth false twisting with stable conveying in the double heater.
A method for production of composite fiber used in false twisted yarn according to the invention will now be explained with reference to FIGS. 5, 6 and 7.
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of an example of a spinning apparatus for composite fiber wound in a pirn shape according to the invention.
Polymer pellets of one of the two polyester components are dried to a moisture content of 20 ppm or less with a drier 1, and then supplied to an extruder 2 set to a temperature of 250-290xc2x0 C. for melting. The other component is also melted with a drier 3 and extruder 4 in the same manner.
The two melted polyesters are respectively fed through a bend 5 and a bend 6, to a spin head 7 set to 250-290xc2x0 C., and dispensed separately with a gear pump. The two components are then combined with a spinneret 9 having a plurality of ports, mounted on a spin pack 8, and after being adhered in a side-by-side manner, they are discharged into a spinning chamber as yarn 10.
The yarn 10 discharged from the spinneret passes through a blow-free zone 11 provided directly under the spinneret, and is then cooled to room temperature by cooling air 12 for hardening, taken up by take-up godet rollers 13, 14 rotating at a prescribed speed, and wound up as an undrawn yarn package 15 of the prescribed yarn size.
The blow-free zone 11 is preferably 100-250 mm. Provision of the blow-free zone controls pre-orienting of the polyester component with high intrinsic viscosity, in order to obtain high-strength yarn. If the blow-free zone is in the aforementioned range, the pre-orienting will be appropriately controlled resulting in little yarn swaying and a uniform yarn size.
The undrawn yarn 15 is coated with a finishing agent by a finishing agent-coating apparatus 16 before contacting the take-up godet roller 13. The finishing agent used is preferably an aqueous emulsion type, at a concentration of preferably 15 wt % or greater and more preferably 20-35 wt %.
The wind-up speed for production of the undrawn yarn is preferably no greater than 2000 m/min, more preferably 1000-2000 m/min and more preferably 1200-1800 m/min.
The undrawn yarn is then supplied to a drawing step and drawn with a drawing machine, an example of which is shown in FIG. 6. For storage up until supply to the drawing step, the storage environment for the undrawn yarn is preferably an atmospheric temperature of 10-25xc2x0 C. and a relative humidity of 75-100%. The undrawn fiber on the drawing machine is preferably kept at this temperature and humidity throughout the drawing.
On the drawing machine, first the undrawn yarn 15 is heated on a feed roller 17 set to 45-65xc2x0 C., and the peripheral speed ratio between the feed roller 17 and drawing roller 20 is utilized for drawing to the prescribed size. After or during the drawing, the fiber is conveyed while contacting with a hot plate 19 set to 100-150xc2x0 C., for tension heat treatment. The fiber which has left the drawing roller is twisted with a spindle and then wound up as a drawn yarn pirn 22.
The feed roller temperature is more preferably 50-60xc2x0 C. and even more preferably 52-58xc2x0 C.
If necessary, a drawing pin 18 may be provided for drawing between the feed roller 17 and hot plate 19. In such cases, the drawing roller temperature is preferably strictly controlled to preferably 50-60xc2x0 C. and more preferably 52-58xc2x0 C.
The drawn yarn leaving the drawing roller 20 is wound up as a drawn yarn pirn 22 while forming a balloon with a traveler guide 21.
The drawn composite fiber is preferably wound up in the pirn shape at a ballooning tension of 0.03-0.15 cN/dtex and more preferably 0.05-0.10 cN/dtex. If the ballooning tension is within this range, the pirn hardness will be about 80-90, crimpability will be stably maintained even after long-term storage, and the pirn shape will not experience load breakage during transport.
In order to impart twisting and/or interlacing to the composite fiber, for example, a drawing system such as shown in FIG. 6 may be used. The twisting and/or crossing can be set by the ratio of the speed of the drawing roller 20 and the rotation rate of the drawn yarn pirn 22. Interlacing may also be imparted by setting a publicly known interlacing apparatus under the drawing roll 20.
FIG. 7 shows an example of a spinning apparatus for composite fiber wound into a cheese shape according to the invention.
For production of a cheese package there may be employed a direct spinning/drawing method whereby spinning/drawing is carried out in a continuous manner, or a method in which undrawn yarn is wound up at high speed without drawing.
In a direct spinning/drawing method, the undrawn yarn is continuously drawn without first being wound up. If necessary, interlacing may be imparted with a interlacing apparatus 23 either before or after drawing. In a direct spinning/drawing method, the speed of the take-up godet roller 24 is preferably 1,000-3,000 m/min. The temperature of the take-up godet roller 24 is preferably 50-90xc2x0 C. The temperature of the drawing godet roller 25 is preferably 100-160xc2x0 C. The wind-up tension is preferably 0.03-0.15 cN/dtex.
For production of undrawn yarn at high speed by a wind-up method, the speed of the take-up godet roller 24 is preferably 2000-3000 m/min. The temperature of the take-up godet roller 24 is preferably 40-100xc2x0 C. The temperature of the drawing godet roller 25 is also preferably 40-100xc2x0 C. By heat treating the undrawn yarn at the take-up godet roller 24 or the drawing godet roller 25, it is possible to adjust the boiling water shrinkage of the undrawn yarn to 1-10%. The wind-up tension is preferably 0.03-0.15 cN/dtex.
The number of rollers is preferably either two or three pairs, depending on the need.
The yarn passing through the drawing godet roller 25 is wound up as a cheese package 26.